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 Tid Bits > Replacing a Three-Tab Shingle
Replacing a Three-Tab Shingle
From Bill Lewis
http://homerepair.about.com/
If you are willing and able to climb onto your roof, and can do that safely, this is definitely a do-it-yourself job.
Pick a warm day to do this, if you can. A warm, dry day. The roofing and the adhesives will be easiest to work with in those conditions.
Before starting, have these tools and materials on hand:
- Shingles that match the ones on the roof in type, size and color. Having some that were saved from the installation of the roof is the best. If you have to buy some, you probably need standard 1' X 3' shingles, so focus on the color.
- Some roofing nails. Four for each shingle you're going to install.
- A hammer.
- A flat pry bar. The kind shaped like the number "7," with a notch in each sharpened end, is good.
- A soft brush, such as a shop brush or an unused paint brush.
- A putty knife, maybe 3" wide. I like the kind that's technically called a flat paint scraper. It's a little thicker than a standard putty knife and has an edge that's beveled, like a chisel.
- A small can of roofing tar or roofing cement - one pint should be enough for most jobs.
On the roof, find both ends of the shingle you need to replace. Remember that a shingle is three feet, or three tabs, long. You need to find the two points where the straight ends of the shingle run up under the shingles above. Use the putty knife to carefully pry the tabs of the shingles overlaying the damaged one up if you need to. Once you find one end, the other should be three tabs away, back across the damaged spot.
Use the putty knife to loosen the tabs of the overlaying shingle. Tap up from the bottom. The tabs should be held down by a strip of adhesive, and that's what you need to break loose. Work carefully to avoid breaking the overlaying shingle tabs. Get all four of the overlaying tabs - assuming a mid-roof repair - loose from the shingles below. Don't lift these tabs more than you have to as you proceed, in order to avoid cracking them.
Loosen the three tabs on the single you're removing. You don't have to be careful with these.
Look for the nails holding the shingle you need to replace. In a good installation, there should be four of them, all placed about halfway, top-to-bottom, under the overlaying tabs. One should be near each end of your shingle and the others should be more-or-less centered under the two center tabs from shingles above.
Use the notch in the long end of the flat bar to pull the nails holding the damaged shingle. Place it and tap it with the hammer to set it. If you need to pry down, slide the blade of the putty knife or the handle of the hammer under the pry bar before you do, to spread the force. Set the nails aside and pull the old shingle down to remove it.
Use the soft brush to sweep all debris out of the area the replacement shingle will cover,including the part under the tabs of the shingles above.
Look on the back of your new shingle for adhesive strips, near the bottom of each tab. If there's thin plastic over the adhesive, leave that for now.
Slide the new shingle into place, easing up the overlaying tabs if you need to.
Lift each overlaying tab and push a new nail into place, just as you would a thumbtack. To avoid lifting the tab too much, hammer the nail home by setting the end of the flat bar on the head of the nail and striking the bar just below the bottom edge of the overlaying tab. Set four, in the pattern described above.
Use the roofing cement to re-glue the overlaying tabs. Spread a thin layer on the back of each tab with the putty knife and press the tab down. If you saw adhesive covered by plastic on the back of the new shingle, peel the plastic off now. If the new shingle doesn't have adhesive on it, glue those tabs down with the cement too.
Clean up. Climb down. You're done.
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